Elmina Castle

After checking into the hotel we ventured out to visit Elmina Castle.  During the the years of slave trading, Elmina Castle held over 1000 men and women awaiting sale and transport.

Our tour guide was wonderful.  The stories told were difficult to hear and even harder to imagine.

 As soon as we entered the courtyard we sent to the "church" to view some exhibits while waiting for our tour.  This building was once a church, built by the Portuguese.  Once the slave trading began, the church was re-purposed.  The church styled roof removed and a second floor built to provide more usable space.

 This is Kathy and our guide.  I appreciated the time taken to explain the history, to identify fact and challenge myths.  On of the most interesting comments related to the success of the slave trade and the fact that the Europeans couldn't do this alone.  Africans were involved in the trade.  It has been said that African people sold their brothers and sisters into slavery.  Our guide clarified this and I was grateful.  Families did not sell their families, brothers/sisters did not sell their brothers/sisters.  There were many tribes of people and with tribes comes loyalty within and rivalry with other tribes.  

 Our first stop was the female slave dungeon.  400 women were held in rooms surrounding a courtyard.   Women lived 100-200 in a room.  They could be there for months.  Living in filth (excrement), fed enough to keep them alive.  Although many did not survive. 

The Governor of the castle would have the women gather in the courtyard and would have his pick.  Once chosen the woman would be stripped and cleaned by a group of soldiers.  She would be dressed and sent up to the Governor.  After he was "finished" with her, she would be "had" by soldiers before being returned to the cells.  Women who were seen as "trouble", those who refused to go to the governor or refused the advances of the soldiers would be shackled to a canon ball in the courtyard and left there for days in heat, in rain, with no food.

This is the well in the courtyard, water was taken from here to wash the "chosen" for their meeting with the Governor.

 This is the back stairway where the women were sent to meet with the Governor.

The view of the courtyard from the balcony...

This group of students are standing on the balcony.

We left the female dungeon and then went to holding cells off the main courtyard.  The first was a drunk tank for unruly soldiers...although small and unpleasant, it was well ventilated.

 The neighboring cell was for male slaves who resisted or caused trouble.  This cell had no light, no ventilation.  Men were left here until dead.  Others would be added.  Many men awaited their deaths among the dead.

 This is the men's dungeon.  The other end of this room leads to the holding area and point of no return.  The "point of no return" is the gate in which people left the castle, boarding the slave ships.  This young man visited the point of no return and is returning, unlike thousands of his ancestors.

 The point of no return...once slaves crossed this threshold, they would never again see their loved ones.  Many couples/families were captured and upon entering the castle separated by sex.

 A few more shots from within the castle.

 This is taken from on top of the wall of the castle.  

Views of the village from the castle.

This was a moving and emotional visit.  I am appalled by what I heard and saw.  I am outraged at the atrocities that we as human beings commit against other human beings.  One would think that as a world we would learn from these things and treat people as people and yet the brutality and injustice continues.

leaving the city for the weekend...

We left the city on Saturday morning. Our destination? The Cape Coast area, more specifically Elmina.  The 3 hour ride was quite eventful.  Traffic rules are very loose on roads and the self talk to keep the backseat driver in control is constant.  We have a wonderful driver his name is Nii (Knee).  He has been with us since last Saturday and he has transported us safely all week.  I am amazed at his skill maneuvering through the streets.

The landscape changed considerably on the trip. The poverty still overwhelming.  The vibrancy of this life very clear.

The front half of these buildings are missing...lost to make room for the new road.  Half of the space is still useful so the back half of the buildings remain.

 Old vehicles are kept for parts I suspect. Over the past week I could have taken pictures like this hundreds of times.  A common sight from the car.

 Buildings under construction and buildings started and abandoned are also a common sight.  There are MANY empty buildings at varying levels of completion.  Many housing "squatters".

 It felt good to get out of the city and see a different landscape.  The constant stream of pedestrians walking on the side of the road has not changed.  Was amazed at the number of people walking and the number of people selling items from the side of the highway.

 We encountered our first village with mud hut housing.

 Any guesses on what these are?

 They are termite mounds!

Along the way we came across several vehicles that had been involved in accidents.  It was clear that many of them had been there for some time.  A reminder of the dangers of the road.

 Here is a shot of the highway vendors. 

 The landscape continues to change, green lush vegetation surrounds the hillside villages.

 This truck lost its load on the side of the road.  They men are reloading it one bag at a time.  Was so grateful that the load shifted here, in town at slower speeds.

 After 2:45 minutes we reach the coast. The castle in the distance is Elima Castle (more on the castle in my next blog).

 This is the port next to the castle...amazing.

We arrived at our beach side resort for a weekend of sights and rest.  The resort is beautiful.  The disparity between the hotel we are staying at and the reality for most of the people we have seen on this day is ENORMOUS.  I continue to be reminded of the privilege that is mine. Makes my heart hurt.

hard at work...

I am sorry that it has been a few days, life happening very fast here.  On Wednesday I started my work with the girls living in the Street Aid House of Refuge.  There are 15 of them.  While here I will see them 5 times for workshops.  The goal is to dream, be build confidence and to empower these new and expecting mothers.

I have to say that I am very entertained by them.  3 of the girls speak English. The common language for everyone (except me of course) is Twi.  Working with a translator has been challenging.  It took a little time to get used to the pace but after two days of working together we are finding our way.

We have been gathering on a patio area...lots of shade and a breeze...a God send for sure.

The activities have been big fun.  I had to do some adjusting with the language barrier, but most activities have worked very well.  

Playing together is a huge part of each of the sessions.  There are lots of giggles.

Rose (in the yellow skirt-above) is my staff support.  She has been working with S. Aid for 11 years. 

 This is Rafia...she was a hard nut to crack...by end of day she had warmed up considerably.  

I am enjoying the girls very much.  Friday is African wear day for S. Aid staff.  I am sporting a new shirt purchased earlier in the week.

 This is Agnes (Aggie).  She has a 5 month old daughter.  I like her very much.  I wish that I spoke Twi. I would love to be able to sit and chat.  A wonderful spirit this one!

 elephants....

 I tapped into my Link Crew training and did an activity called Life Story.  The girls were asked a series of questions and asked to draw their responses.  Favorite food, a favorite gift received and identifying someone they admire or look up too were some of the questions.

 hard at work....

 Rose jumps in too (above)...and so does Aggie's little one (below)...

 this is Amama...a funny funny girl...

 sharing our life story pictures....

 time for a little break...they LOVED foot foot...a game from my Covenant Players days...

 back to work...with drawing working the best for communicating, we jump back in...on one half of the paper they are drawing pictures of their dreams...the dreams they have for themselves...on the other half their hopes and dreams for their children....

many of the girls aspire to be hair dressers and dress makers...their hopes fro their children included teachers, nurses, police women, soldiers and doctors...the challenge for next week will be to help them dream for themselves in the way they dream for their children.

 another group photo...